Sunday June 13

Les Invalides / Viaduct des Arts

Like your marble, your tombs big and less than huge crowds, then the gold capped Les Invalides could be for you. The architecture and sheer size of Les Invalides is both impressive by design and overwhelming in grandeur. Les Invalides was built by Louis the 14th as a military hospital for his wounded soldiers. Its large church, golden dome and its sheer imposing size makes Les Invalides a masterpiece of French classical architecture.

The Musée de L'Armée at Les Invalides houses the Tomb of Napoleon, arguably the greatest Frenchman that ever lived. Suitable, the museum also contains a history of the Army of France. Napoléon died in 1821 on the island of St Helena whilst in exile. Napoléon's tomb is made of red porphyry with a green granite base which is circled by a crown of laurels and inscriptions of his victories.

The Viaduc used to be an abandoned, crumbling, decaying 19th-century railroad viaduct. Now it is a thriving 21st-century combination of shops and parkland. Even on the coldest days the shops and the Promenade were alive with people. The shops are tucked into the handsome orange-red brick arches that are reminiscent of the famous Place des Vosges located close by. The shops sell mostly antiques, art and craft some of which is made on the premises.


Les Invalides

Les Invalides, officially known as L'Hôtel national des Invalides (The National Residence of the Invalids), is a complex of buildings in the 7th arrondissement of Paris, France, containing museums and monuments, all relating to the military history of France, as well as a hospital and a retirement home for war veterans, the building's original purpose. The buildings house the Musée de l'Armée, the military museum of the Army of France, the Musée des Plans-Reliefs, and the Musée d'Histoire Contemporaine, as well as the burial site for some of France's war heroes, notably Napoleon Bonaparte (lists below).

Louis XIV initiated the project by an order dated November 24, 1670, as a home and hospital for aged and unwell soldiers: the name is a shortened form of hôpital des invalides. The architect of Les Invalides was Libéral Bruant. The selected site was suburban in the seventeenth century. By the time the enlarged project was completed in 1676, the river front measured 196 metres and the complex had fifteen courtyards, the largest being the cour d'honneur ("court of honour") for military parades. It was then felt that the veterans required a chapel. Jules Hardouin Mansart assisted the aged Bruant, and the chapel was finished in 1679 to Bruant's designs after the elder architect's death. The chapel is known as Eglise Saint-Louis des Invalides. Daily attendance was required.

Shortly after the veterans' chapel was completed, Louis XIV had Mansart construct a separate private royal chapel, often referred to as the Église du Dôme from its most striking feature (ill. right). Inspired by St. Peter's Basilica in Rome the original for all Baroque domes, it is one of the triumphs of French Baroque architecture. Mansart raises his drum with an attic storey over its main cornice, and employs the paired columns motif in his more complicated rhythmic theme. The general programme is sculptural but tightly integrated, rich but balanced, consistently carried through, capping its vertical thrust firmly with a ribbed and hemispherical dome. The domed chapel is centrally placed to dominate the court of honour. It was finished in 1708.

The interior of the dome (illustration, right) was painted by Le Brun's disciple Charles de La Fosse (1636–1716) with a Baroque illusion of space seen from below (sotto in su perspective, the Italians were calling it). The painting was completed in 1705.

On the north front of Les Invalides Hardouin-Mansart's chapel dome is large enough to dominate the long facade yet harmonizes with Libéral Bruant's door under an arched pediment. To the north the courtyard (cour d'honneur), is extended by a wide public esplanade (Esplanade des Invalides) where the embassies of Austria and Finland are neighbours of the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs, all forming one of the grand open spaces in the heart of Paris. At its far end, the Pont Alexandre III links this grand urbanistic axis with the Petit Palais and the Grand Palais. (the Pont des Invalides is next, downstream the Seine river). The Hôpital des Invalides spurred William III of England to emulation, in the military Greenwich Hospital of 1694.

The buildings still comprise the Institution Nationale des Invalides (official site), a national institution for disabled war veterans. The institution comprises:

           a retirement home

           a medical and surgical centre

           a centre for external medical consultations.

The most notable tomb at Les Invalides is that of Napoleon Bonaparte (1769–1821). Napoleon was initially interred on Saint Helena, but King Louis-Philippe arranged for his remains to be brought to St Jerome's Chapel in Paris in 1840, in what became known as the retour des cendres. A renovation of Les Invalides took many years, but in 1861 Napoleon was moved to the most prominent location under the dome at Les Invalides.

A popular tourist site today, Les Invalides is also the burial site for some of Napoleon's family, for several military officers who served under him, and other French military heroes.

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  Napoleon's tomb

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Viaduct des Arts

The Viaduc used to be an abandoned, crumbling, decaying 19th-century railroad viaduct. Now it is a thriving 21st-century combination of shops and parkland. Even on the coldest days the shops and the Promenade were alive with people. The shops are tucked into the handsome orange-red brick arches that are reminiscent of the famous Place des Vosges located close by. The shops sell mostly antiques, art and craft some of which is made on the premises.

The park is a strip of green that follows the old train bed on top of the arches. Commerce beneath - the peace of greenery above. The landscaping is simply amazing and endlessly varied. One stage feels like natural marshland the next you are into a formal garden. The park includes playing fields on its route as well as strolling parkland. At times it narrows significantly with large trees shielding you from daylight. Other times courtyards appear where wine sipping Parisians watch their kids playing football. Take your time and you will discover curiosities such as the cave hideaway. Take more time and you will start to sense that the Park has a power of its own as it seemingly splits a building in two for standing in its way. The the walk along the Viaduc is no ordinary walk in the park. Its is something you are likely to remember for a long time.

Click here to see other pictures.

Click here to see other pictures.