Monday: May 17

Musee d'Orsay and Musee National de la Legion d’honneur

There are a lot of museums in Paris; the most famous, the biggest, the richest, the everything is probably the Louvre. I like it, BUT, I find it too big. You can spend days and days in the Louvre and not see it all.

My favorite museum in Paris is the Museum d'Orsay. It is just down the road and across the Seine from the Louvre. It is smaller, more intimate, something you can see in a day, and appreciate without getting the Louvre overload. It has great works of art (assuming you want to see French art, and it is comfortable. Take a look; I'm sure you will like it.

The Musee Nation de la Legion d'honneur is right across the street from the Musee d'Orsay. It's a beautiful building, smaller as it was once a mansion. Inside you can find out everything you ever wanted to know about medals and orders....it's interesting but after a while, a bit of a bore. I wouldn't stand in line to see it, but there rarely is a line anyway. Take a peek; maybe you'll like it.


Musée d'Orsay

The Musée d'Orsay is on the left bank of the Seine, housed in the former railway station, the Gare d'Orsay, an impressive Beaux-Arts edifice built between 1898 and 1900. It holds mainly French art dating from 1848 to 1915, including paintings, sculptures, furniture, and photography, and is probably best known for its extensive collection of impressionist and post-impressionist masterpieces (the largest in the world) by such painters such as Monet, Manet, Degas, Renoir, Cézanne, Seurat, Gauguin and Van Gogh. Many of these works were held at the Galerie nationale du Jeu de Paume prior to the museum's opening in 1986.

The museum building was originally a railway station, Gare d'Orsay, constructed for the Chemin de Fer de Paris à Orléans and finished in time for the 1900 Exposition Universelle to the design of three architects: Lucien Magne, Émile Bénard and Victor Laloux. It was the terminus for the railways of southwestern France until 1939.

D'Orsay Museum, seen from the right bank of the Seine river (not my picture)

By 1939 the station's short platforms had become unsuitable for the longer trains that had come to be used for mainline services. After 1939 it was used for suburban services and part of it became a mailing centre during World War II. It was then used as a set for several films, such as Kafka's The Trial adapted by Orson Welles, and as a haven for the Renaud-Barrault Theatre Company and for auctioneers, while the Hôtel Drouot was being rebuilt. The station's hotel closed on 1 January 1973.

In 1977 the French Government decided to convert the station to a museum. ACT Architecture (Renaud Bardon, Pierre Colboc and Jean-Paul Philippon) were the designers and the construction work was carried by Bouygues. The Italian architect Gae Aulenti oversaw the design of the conversion from 1980 to 1986.

The work involved creating 20,000 sq. m. of new floorspace on four floors. The new museum was opened by President François Mitterrand on 1 December 1986.

I've included pictures of several works displayed in the museum, to give you and idea. Of course the collection is vast so this is just a sampling. At the end of the gallery, I've shown two sculptures, again, just to give you a taste. The museum actually has many mnay sculptures throughout, and some especially large ones in the main hall.

If you get a chance to visit, make sure you lunch at the restaurant. It is elegant, the way it used to be. Classical music in the background, it is just a wonderful place to sit and enjoy some food - which is pretty good. Everything is expensive in Paris and I would have expected to pay a fortune here, but I was surprised; it is no more expensive than the good brasserie. So enjoy.

BTW, I'm sorry for the weather. It rains almost every day and thus, it is overcast and often cloudy. I wish I could give you sunny pictures, but weather is out of my hands. Maybe if it gets nice I will take new pictures and replace these. Let's see.....

Click here to see other pictures; including some of the art works on display!

Click here to see other pictures; including some of the art works on display!


Musee National de la Legion d’honneur et des Orderes de Chevaler

The Palace

The Hôtel de Salm was commissioned by Prince Frederic III of Salm-Kyrbourg from the architect Pierre Rousseau in 1782 and completed in 1788. The Legion of Honour acquired it on 3 May 1804. Severely damaged in the Paris Commune fire, the mansion was identically rebuilt by the architect Mortier between the years 1871 and 1878.

It is the residence of the Grand Chancellor and the headquarters of the Order. The building harbours the Grand Chancery which is the administrator of the national orders: the Legion of Honour (since 1802), the Military Medal (since 1852) and the Order of Merit (since 1963).

The palace is also the home of the National Museum of the Legion of Honour and the Orders of Knighthood (since 1925).

The Museum

The museum was built between 1922 and 1925 in a wing that was once the stables of the Salm Mansion. Founded by General Yvon Dubail, it was funded by contributions from Legion of Honour and Military Medal holders. The response was particularly generous from the United States.

The initial core of the objects exhibited when it opened in 1925 came from the Grand Chancery, from collections of the national museums and from the collection of an enlightened amateur, Maurice Bucquet (1860-1921). Numerous donations and prestigious purchases have been added along the years.

Unfortunately, this is one of several museums etc in Paris where they do not allow pictures inside. So I will only show you the outside. It is an interesting place to visit, but don't stand too long in line...it's not that interesting. But the building is nice.

Click on the picture to see a larger view.

   

Click on the picture to see a larger view.